France the South
This Trip was made in the Spring of 1997 (Last week in April to May 21st 1997)
Fly to Paris, stay overnight and catch the TGV to Marseille. Rent a car (we rented one at the train Station). We actually booked the car back in Canada through Auto Europa).
Drive south to Cassis, stay overnight and have Bouillabaisse if you can afford it ($60 a person and up).
Take the back roads (d-roads) up to the Luberon (Peter Mayle country) One of the villages that we visited was Loumarain, birthplace of Camus. Stay either out in the countryside around AIX (we stayed over night at Pernes les Fontaines at a Logis just outside of town and had one of the best meals of our trip - it was asparagus and strawberry season) or in AIX (birth place of Cezanne although you wouldn't know it as there is barely a painting of his to be found). We stayed in Le Manoir, a 16th Century Convent that has been turned into a hotel - quiet, and parking inside the walls of the hotel is free (310F and up). See the flower market at the Hotel de Ville and do the cafe thing on the Boulevard. .....
Visit Avignon and stay if you want or see the important sites, Palais du Pape and the Gardens thereabouts, Petit Palais, & the famous half bridge, then visit the Chateauneuf Du Pape region and definitely go wine tasting. Our favorite was Chateau La Nerthe. It has one of the most ancient wine cellars in the region. Intoxicating! We drove a long way this day and ended up in the Cevenne. We stayed overnight in St. Jean du Gard at a really good Logis. Really nice people run the place and it has great food.
Drive the Gorge du Tarn but first the Corniche des Cevennes(d260). Col St. Pierre is a great picnic spot. Smells like home (pine forest). A twenty minute walk up to the view point. Make the obligatory stops along the way to ooh and ah at the scenery. Quezac has an interesting old church - chambre d'ote looks fabulous here if you want to stay longer, wish we had. Point Sublime really is worth the extra miles. This is the beginning of the Lot River Valley and it is most dramatic. The Three E places (Espalion, Estaing, Entrayques) are worth stopping at and wandering around. Some even have Chateaux that you can enter to see how the French aristocracy lived before the peasants revolted. At times it seems little has changed as the rich still live in glorious houses. There are so many "most pleasant village of France" that you wonder which ones really are worth stopping at. Try and hit at least one or two on Market day as this really is a great way to experience the villages. There are a couple of Chateaux that have been converted into hotels. Stay in one if you passed up the B & B.
Drive through the countryside to Figeac. We stayed in a hotel on the river called Hotel du Bain. Unfortunately, the rooms are dark and somewhat depressing but the river views are worth the browns. Good market and a good walking tour - interesting old town with some great old houses and doors. From here, visit Conques on route to Sarlat du Canada. Conques is a very big tourist destination so be prepared. The stone work on the church makes' it worth the crowds. Some other important sites to see on route to Sarlat are Rocamadour, Gouffre de Padira, an amazing cave to visit and of course the Dordogne River Valley (cliff side villages en route with huge Chateaux on every hill). Try and get into the Logis in the old city but if you don't there are plenty of other places. Sarlat really is a most impressive place. The central cite is a medieval town with great restaurants and shops selling the local staple Canard in its various reincarnations. It's quite a large area and its best to do it once at night and then during the day to see it in both lights.
From here it's a toss up. If you've had enough of winding river valleys and beautiful scenery, head south and west toward Albi, a very English friendly place that is the birth place of Toulous Latrec and wonders upon wonders, it actually has a gallery that has some great paintings in it. The building itself, is part of a palace. The ceilings are what I liked best about the building.
If you haven't had enough of the hillside villages, go to St. Cirq Lapopie. The place we stayed is cute and has a great view of the ruins but the woman who owns it, needs to take the "Good Host" program.
Albi is also home to a really beautiful and huge Cathedral which occupies a prominent place in the city centre. It apparently is one of the few large cathedrals that still has an intricately carved rood screen (look it up) and Chancellery. Lots of accommodation and if you're in a panic, try the helpful people at the tourist office. We stayed at a place called Hotel de Laperouse just outside the city centre but walkable to it, ask for a room at the back overlooking the garden and pool. Another great place to wander around. Beautiful bridges, good food.
Next day the weather turned on us and Toulous was more than we could stand. Its Frances' third city and is a bit of a nightmare to drive into and around if you've been meandering the back roads. We didn't stay for a lot of reasons. Make sure you read up on the days things are closed here as there was really nothing that interested us. Drive onto Carcasonne and if you dare, stay in "La Citie," the hilltop walled city that makes Carcasonne famous. You will have to walk in first to secure your accommodation and get a pass for your vehicle. There are quite a few places to stay inside but during the tourist season, I'm sure they are all booked. We stayed at Hotel des Ramparts. Very comfortable but a bit pricey for what you get. We heard that the B & B (only one) is a great deal. The tour of the castle is pricey but worth it. We recommend the red tour which is only in the afternoon. You actually get to see inside of some the palace and the tour guide has a great sense of humor. Try Casoulet for dinner. This place is really big on the tour list so if you get claustrophobic, you might want to stay in the new town so you can get away from the crowds.
Next onto the Mediterranean. Try and stay in Baylus at the south end near the Spanish border. There isn't much to do hear but wander the town and walk on the beach. Just outside of town are some nice vineyards and great views of the Pyrenees.
Next day the Camargue and stay in St. Marie sur la Mer. The Camargue is famous for its resident Pink Flamingos, white horses and black bulls. The town is very nice and has tons of restaurants and hotels. Feast on platters of seafood. Walking, cycling and horseback riding are the things to do here.
Arles- we stayed at Le Gaugin. Really inexpensive but nice rooms and the people are very friendly. Arles is one of those Roman towns so there is lots of stuff to see. It has the second largest Amphitheatre in France. Day trips from Arles are St. Remy- touristy and Les Baux, probably the most touristy place we went to. Close by is Glanum, a Roman town in ruins but interesting just the same.
Back to Marseille (huge). Stay near Port Vieux. Try Hermes near the Hotel de Ville (300F) but you might want to phone ahead. Marseilles has incredible buildings with wrought iron balconies. It also has lots of garbage, dog poo, homeless people and a somewhat menacing atmosphere after dark. The harbour is very picturesque and you can do a boat tour to the Calangues(limestone cliffs) from here.
Return to Paris
Michelin Green Guides: Provence, Dordorgne and Pyrenees - Languedoc
. Great for figuring out important things and sites not to miss but not exactly objective in its description. These books are not for everyone.
Cadogan Guides: Provence, Dordogne & Lot , South of France
. Without a doubt, some of the best guidebooks on the market today. Inspired writing with just the right amount of subjectivity
Logis de France
: Good accommodation guide. The Logis' are small hotels that have restaurants where traditional food is served. Some logis offer half or full board which includes dinner and breakfast. The rating system is somewhat suspect but overall is representative of what you can expect.
Turkey by car
Turkey by Car
We rented a car. We left the last week of April and travelled for 26 days. Although we didn’t take public transport, i.e. buses, trains etc., I think anyone could do the route we did with the exception of some of the side trips. Our big mistake was we stayed too long in Istanbul. Don’t!
Day 1 & 2 - Istanbul - We stayed in Sultanyamet (near Blue Mosque) in a nice clean new hotel called The Arasta - $60/night. Great breakfast buffet included.
Day 3 - Picked up car and took a ferry across the Sea of Marmara to Yalova and spent the night at Thermal, an old spa. Has private rooms with marble baths for two people.
Day 4 - Long drive through Bursa to Ayvalik located on the Aegean Coast. Nice place, not too touristy, stayed at one of the best hotels on our trip, the Hotel Kaptan. Our room was right on the Aegean with great views and relatively quiet. $30
Day 5 - Day trip to Bergama and the Hellenic ruins of Persemon and Askeplios (fabulous). Drove back through the pine forests to Ayvalik. Ate out at the Esplanade in a town you can see across the bay. Seafood to die for. Pick what you want to eat.
Day 6 - Drive to Selcuk (Ephes). We went the long way via the Cesme peninsula, (lots of small beach towns/resorts). Selcuk was a nice place. Lots of tourists so it has a great selection of restaurants and hotels. It is possible to see everything with just one nights stay if you arrive early on the first day so you can do all the Selcuk stuff. The site at Ephes can be seen in about three hours the next day.
Day 7 - Drive to Pamakale. Unfortunately, the territines are closed to bathing, however, the site is still pretty amazing and the ruins/necropolis are worth the price of admission on their own($8). The amphitheatre is one of the best preserved in Turkey. Stayed at the Karavanserai Hotel $20/night.
Day 8 - On the drive to Dalyan on the coast, we stopped at Mukla, a very pretty, clean town with some great Greek houses. Dalyan is a situated on a very beautiful river that connects a lake to the sea and is lined with 12ft. Reeds.
Day 9- Dalyan. Do the boat trip/tour of the mud baths, hot springs, ruins - not great, and the beach - all day for $6. The beach is one of Turkey’s best and is where the Loggerhead Turtles lay their eggs. Dalyan also has some great Lycian tombs, directly opposite the town on a cliff face.
Day 10 - On the way to Kas, we stopped at Oludeniz to see the famed Blue Lagoon, Myra, home of St. Nicholas and Lycian rock tombs, and Patara, by far one of the nicest beaches anywhere (25 kms of white sand & deserted).
Day 11 - Do the 8 hour boat trip to sunken city (was that it?), and Simena with its crusader castle.
Day 12 - Cirali / Olympos. Backpackers come here in droves to stay at the tree houses. We opted for a nice hotel ($25) set in an apple orchard. Cirali is the place with the fires in the rocks. Do it at night with a flashlight. The beach here is none to shabby either.
Day 13 - Drive via Antalya and then over the mountains to Konya. Beautiful drive. Konya is the home of the Mevlana Mosque among others. It is the undisputed religious centre of Turkey. We stayed over night here but if you can avoid it, and manage to see the mosque en route to somewhere else, do it.
Day 14 - The Ilhara Valley with a lunch stop at the largest Caravanserai in Asia Minor. The Ilhara valley is actually a river valley cut deep into sandstone walls that house numerous Byzantine churches and dwellings. The walk through the valley from one end to the other takes a leisurely day. Really beautiful and there are not that many tourists here. We stayed in Ilhara at the Anatolian Paynsion ($24).
Day 15 - En route to Goreme, stop at one or all of the underground cities if you must. Boring and if you suffer from any amount of claustrophobia, you’d be advised not to. What if the power went off?
Day 16 &17 - Goreme. The backpackers seem to stay away from the Open Air Museum in droves but we decided it was worth the price of admission. Although I’m not sure the additional charge to see the most famous church is worth it, as the one you are allowed into on the way out is just as good and doesn’t cost another $9.00 each! Just wander around the countryside and someone is sure to approach you to take you on a tour of some churches that no one has ever seen, (ya sure), but it is a great way to see the valley. Rose Valley is gorgeous as are some of the surrounding towns like Urgup (this is actually a nicer place to stay than Goreme) & Mustafapasa.
Day 18 - Bozchale. Site of the Hittite ruins, Hattusas. You need a guide, the man who owns the Hatusas Motel speaks great English and is very informed about the ruins. Unfortunately, he also owns a carpet shop. Tour takes about 3 - 4 hours and is included if you stay at his hotel (not great but clean $24).
Day 19 - Sinop. Black Sea Coast resort town and former US listening post. Not much to do here but the food is great and because it was off season, we got a cottage for $30.
Day 20 - Amasra.
Day 21 - Back to Istanbul. Don’t miss the Dolmabahce Palace (skip the Harem tour here unless you have to see the circumcision room), Beyoglu, the Bosphorus cruise, the Grand Bazaar, cisterns (any or all of them), seafood dinner in Kumkapi, lunch at the Greek restaurant located in the Egyptian Market.
If you are a cat lover, take a few packets of Kibbles ‘n Bits to feed the cats begging at your table any where in the country. Take ear plugs to dull the 5 AM call to prayer.
Suggested Books
:
To produce this bold and richly textured portrait, journalist Tim Kelsey visited prisons, police stations and pools full of magic fish. He set off into a war zone to find Noah's Ark. He spoke to archivists, archaeologists and human rights activists, monks and pop stars, a transsexual with plans on becoming Prime Minister and a watchman at a brothel reading Marcel Proust. Trapped between the glorious Ottoman past and the tough challenges of today, Turkey is an unsettling, chaotic yet utterly compelling country. Kelsey's superb book brings it to life before our eyes....$14.99
Inspired by the romantic Orientalists of the nineteenth century, Eric Lawlor went to Turkey in search of exotic splendour: the fez; a luxurious massage; and the likes of Osman, a legendary knave and con man. What he found was a country in which the fez has been banned since the 1920s, the baths are as brutal as police interrogations, and rogues like Osman have given way to young professionals seeking Turkish entry into the European Economic Community....$14.00
This author offers us an intimate portrait of Turkey rarely seen- a land where the cutting of a tree is a rime, where goats are sacrificed to launch state of the art ships, and where whole towns emerge at dusk to stroll the streets. She finds ancient monasteries converted into discos, underground cities carved out of rock, and sleek jet set yachts alongside camels piled high with copper pots. She follows in the footsteps of emperors and nomads, sultans and shepherds; explores the trails blazed by Alexander the Great, Tamerlane, Genghis Khan, and Ataturk....$15.00
Features of this atlas include:
- full-colour maps including country locator map and four-page route map
- maps checked on the road
- full depiction of latitudes/longitudes
- comprehensive index ensures easy location-finding
- This atlas acts as a perfect companion to Lonely Planet's Turkey guide....$22.50
This new authoritative guide will ensure you make the most of your stay in this age-old metropolis....$18.50
Anne in Newfoundland
Despite being a born and bred Maritimer, it took me 44 years to finally see my 10th Canadian province - Newfoundland! Ask most Canadians if they've been in all ten provinces and they'll say "yes, except for Newfoundland." And that's a real shame! Newfoundland is one of Canada's hidden treasures - a place of rugged beauty, pristine wilderness, warm and friendly people and rich in history.
Start your planning by obtaining Newfoundland's Department of Tourism, Culture and Recreation Annual Visitor's Guide titled Newfoundland & Labrador Travel Guide. This publication includes a wealth of information on accommodation, restaurants, events, as well as suggested driving routes. The guide is free, and can be obtained from 1-800-563-6353. (They'll also include a map and other brochures of specific interest to you.)
The following itinerary is one followed by my 85 ½ year old mother, my 82 year old aunt, and me for a week-long visit to Canada's newest province. Because of my mom's and aunt's ages, we did not do anything too strenuous, although I would have loved to do some hiking in Gros Morne and Cape St Mary's. We only spent 5 days on the island itself, which meant we did a lot of driving each day. I would recommend a minimum of 2 weeks and preferably 3 to 4 to really do the province justice. Gros Morne National Park itself is well worth a week, just to explore the tundra-like plateaus, glacier-carved fjords and picturesque villages. This park is a wonderland for hikers, kayakers and nature-lovers.
A word about the ferries to Nfld - they are expensive and reservations are recommended. If you follow the same circuit we did, you'll have to time your island entry/exit to coincide with the ferry schedule. The Argentia ship only starts in mid-June, and doesn't run every day. You can rent either a dorm sleeper($ 14 - 20 ) or a stateroom ($90-125 - sleeps 4), which are well worth it on the longer run. North Sydney, NS to Port-aux-Basques run is about 7 hours (car - $62, passenger - $20, child - $10), Argentia to North Sydney is about 14 hours. (car - $124, passenger - $55, child - 27.50).
DAY 1 - Overnight ferry from North Sydney, NS to Port-aux-Basques (km 0) (we rented a stateroom and found it to be very comfortable although it pitched about as much as the rest of the ship did - this can be a rough ferry ride - far rougher than BC Ferries!)
DAY 2 - Began our drive from Port-aux-Basques by spotting a Mama Moose and her calf on the road. Moose are plentiful on the Island, and can be a real driving hazard. Drove through Corner Brook (+218 km), a pretty little city, despite the mill belching smoke, and on to Deer Lake (+50 km) and Gros Morne Park (See note above).
There are accommodations in the park, just outside or in Deer Lake.
DAY 3 - Through km after km of forests to Grand Falls-Windsor (+208 km), and up north to the outports and fishing villages to Twillingate (+142 km). We saw ice bergs - lots of them - in and around Twillingate, and they really are a sight to behold! I would overnight in Twillingate, as there are lots of quaint Bed & Breakfasts, restaurants and tour operators here to take you to see whales, ice bergs or both!
DAY 4 - Around to Musgrave Harbour, not a particularly interesting section of coast line, through to Terra Nova National Park (+300 km), another stunning nature-lovers area, and on to St John's (+250 km).
DAY 5- St John's The city is a delight with its hilly, crooked streets and picturesque houses. The downtown core reminded me very much of Ireland with its buildings built right to the sidewalk and the colourful houses. We stayed at the Delta (not a budget place!) Which was very centrally located to downtown, and afforded us a great view of the harbour.
Signal Hill is a good place to orient yourself to the city (providing it's not foggy!!). This is where Marconi flew his kite and received the first trans-Atlantic radio transmission. Qidi Vidi (pronounces "kitty vitty") Harbour is a lovely little protected harbour with a mouth that must be only 30 feet wide. And no visit is complete without a visit to Cape Spear National Historic Site. This is the most easterly point of North America. Here you are closer to Ireland than you are to Manitoba, and it is a ruggedly beautiful, wild spot. Bring a warm jacket and sturdy walking shoes - the winds can be pretty wild, and the paths can be washed by the sea.
DAY 6 - The Avalon Peninsula - You can easily drive the perimeter of the Avalon Peninsula (+300 km) ending in Placentia, in one day. You probably wouldn't really want to, as there are some lovely little towns and villages that I am sure have some great B & Bs. Tors Cove was one particularly scenic place. Parts of the peninsula are completely flat and barren, and hundreds of caribou can be seen on the barrens. Small hunting cabins dot the landscape, but there is quite a distance between settlements.
The highlight of the peninsula for me was the Cape St Mary's Seabird Ecological Reserve. It's a bit off the main road (about 12 km), but definitely worth the effort. Thousands of birds hang out here, particularly around Bird Rock. Gannets, murres, kittiwake abound. This is also a great spot to see whales in the summer, and the setting is spectacular. Again, dress warmly as it is pretty much always windy here.
We spent the last night in Placentia (+50 km) at the Harold Hotel, about a 20 minute drive from Argentia where you catch the ferry. When we got back to North Sydney, we stayed at a fabulous B& B called Annfield Manor, a coal baron's estate house built in 1883.
All in all, we had a great week visiting Newfoundland, despite not terrific weather (early June - brrr!!), and I would go back to Newfoundland in a minute!!
Suggested Books
:
Like a corner of Europe, Canada's Atlantic provinces harbor a multicultural melange where Irish brogue and Scottish kilts can be found along with historic French forts and deserted Viking villages. Atlantic Canada Handbook provides extensive coverage of this beautiful region, featuring: a survey of the area's incredible land and seascapes, including massive icebergs, the mighty Fundy tides, and the breathtaking Cape Breton Highlands. The thriving arts scene of Halifax and the forlorn grandeur of Newfoundland and Labrador. Reliable and up-to-date recommendations for dining, accommodations and outdoor recreation....$29.50
New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, and Newfoundland & Labrador. These provinces offer an almost infinite combination of day and weekend activities on the trails, along the rivers, on lakes and bays, and on the snow and ice that blankets much of the land and the water in winter.......$30.95
The complete guide to over 600 B&B's throughout New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, Nova Scotia and Newfoundland.....$15.95
This new field guide, complete with colour photographs, offers invaluable information for both experienced and novice nature lovers........$24.95
Botanical South Africa
Arriving in South Africa this January after a long absence, I was surprised to find it looking so lush and green. Although the main purpose of my journey was to reconnect with family and friends , I was lured by the diversity of the indigenous flora, and spent a lot of my time exploring some of the excellent botanical gardens and parks in the Gauteng region. While it is easy enough to enjoy the wide variety of natural vegetation while touring the country, you really have to visit some of the botanical gardens in order to appreciate some of the more rare and exotic species (like those in the cycad family).
South Africans take their horticulture seriously, and there are many field guides available locally. They are easy enough to find at most local bookstores (books are notoriously expensive, so expect to pay well over R100 for a decent field guide). Before you go however, you might want to contact the Botanical Society of South Africa* e-mail: botsocsa@gem.co.za. While you can become a member, they are more than willing to furnish you with ideas on what not to miss, as well as local events that might not be widely advertised.
My first visit was to the National Botanical Gardens in Pretoria. The gardens cover 77 hectares and are planted with indigenous plants from all over the country. The approximately 20,000 plants are labelled and grouped according to area of origin, and are a must-see. They are located about 11km for the city centre and are open from 8am to 5:30pm. There is no entrance fee during the week, and only a small charge on the weekend.
In the city centre, don’t forget to take in Burgers Park (across the road from the famous Melrose House). It is has some of the biggest rubber trees that I have ever seen, and also a conservatory housing an interesting array of tropical plants. The Zoological Garden in Pretoria also offers a treat for keen botanists, and a great cable-car ride up the side of a koppie (rock outcrop) gives you spectacular views of the surrounding areas.
Unfortunately, I did not get to the Cape this time around, which is the highlight for anyone with a floral interest. With more than 8500 species, the Cape peninsula alone has more indigenous flora than the entire British Isles, and no visit would be complete without a stop at the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, one of the world’s most beautiful spots.
Located on the eastern side of Table Mountain, the 36 hectares of garden merge with 496 hectares of indigenous fynbos (the Cape Floral Kingdom is the richest of the six floral kingdoms in the world, with over 1300 species per 10,000 sq km! The dominant species is fynbos, so keep you eyes open for the spectacular proteas and heaths on display).
If you are able to coincide your visit with the flowering of the daisies in Namaqualand (mid-August to mid-September) then you are in for the ultimate treat as the landscape becomes vibrant and alive- flowers abound.
This is by no means a complete listing of all the botanical attractions; the guides recommended below offer some useful information, and the Internet also acts an additional source.
Suggested Books
:
This guide explores South Africa from its most remote bush outposts to its vibrant cities, to big game parks and underwater nature reserves, through rainforest and rich vineyards, over tortuous mountain passes and into the heart of the desert. Includes a twelve page colour wildlife guide.....$32.50
The new South Africa is one of Africa's most popular destinations, with some of the continent's best national parks, historical sites, adventure activities and services for the visitor. This down-to-earth guide covers all the corners of this enormously varied country; from the Cape Dutch architecture of the wine lands to Vegas-style Sun City to decorated Ndebele villages. Fully updated, this guide has all the essential information for independent travellers on any budget...$34.50
Set amid spectacular mountains and magnificent surf beaches, cosmopolitan Cape Town is one of the world's most beautiful cities. a testament to the new South Africa, Cape town is also one of the friendliest and safest African cities to visit. This indispensable guide is the most comprehensive available, packed with essential insider advice...$20.50
Some of the best travel writing ever collected about the richly diverse mother lode of the African continent. Includes the likes of Mark Twain, Michael Palin & Jan Morris.......$24.50
Return to Table of Contents
Order Form
E-mail: travlbug@uniserve.comCopyright © The Travel Bug Bookstore